Day 2- Sarapiquí, Selva Verde Lodge and Rainforest Reserve

Today we left the Central Valley heading to Selva Verde in Sarapiqui. We could see the clouds covering the mountains we would be driving over. 

As we clImbed out of the valley and ascended the mountains to 6,000 feet, we could see the distinct changes in elevation. One elevation marker is a plant called “the poor man’s umbrella” that has huge broad leaves. You only see these at high elevations. 

Passing over the Continental Divide between the Caribbean and Pacific we were enshrouded in the visible dew point. So much fresh water in this misty area coming from “cloud milking”. Coming down from the mountains the elevation changes and you see palms, bananas, and other plants. We were now in the Caribbean lowlands. 

We made a stop at a local road side fruit market where our fantastic guide Jimmy arranged a fruit tasting for us. He showed us the many types of tropical fruits growing in the region- mangos, plantains, cherimoyas, lychees, papayas, bananas, bread fruit, papayas, guavas, passion fruit, and many fruits I never heard of. The owner showed us how he cuts the hearts of palm. Our introduction to tropical produce was followed by a tasting table where we got to try many local specialties. A delicious break from our road trip!

We arrived at the Selva Verde Lodge- a beautiful ecolodge nestled in lush rainforest with a raging white water river bordering the property. The lodge is owned by the Holbrook’s and hosts many birding groups and eco-travelers.  While we waited for our rooms to be ready- Jimmy took us out on some of the trails. We passed a basilisk lizard, also called the Jesus Christ lizard for its way of running on water. 

We found teeny tiny blue jean frogs, no bigger than a thumbnail. One had its tadpole on its back. They are unusual for amphibians in that they provide maternal care for two weeks after the eggs hatch. We saw several large iguanas sunning in the trees.

We crossed the river on a suspended bridge which was a bit scary as it moved as we crossed over the raging river and looked down on white water rafters and kayakers passing beneath us.

It rained on and off as we walked. 

After lunch, keeping with the food theme, we left to learn about chocolate- where it comes from and how it is made.

Better than learning about the chocolate was meeting the owner of the sustainable chocolate operation, Best Chocolate, and his family. He started our visit showing us the mosaic made by his wife telling the story of the hummingbird that wanted to make a difference. There was a fire in the rainforest and all the animals were fleeing the forest. As they fled the fire grew. The hummingbird flew back toward the fire carrying some drops of water to put on the fire. The bigger animals laughed at the hummingbird and said you can’t put out a fire with that tiny amount of water. The hummingbird said! “At least I can try to make a difference.”

This wonderful man and his family is the hummingbird! Their primary mission is to educate people about the importance of protecting the rainforest, using the cocoa tree as an example and the impact on climate change when we destroy the rainforest (there is an acute awareness in Costa Rica among “educated” people of how climate change is affecting their country yet others who don’t understand it equate it only as causing ice caps and glaciers to melt thinking it won’t impact them being in Costa Rica. Already Costa Rican’s are feeling the difference in weather patterns. Perhaps it would be better if we use the term, Global Climate Change). He also wants to provide income to local families who by protecting their cocoa trees, can sell the pods for chocolate production.

We walked into the rainforest where we learned how the cacao pods grow on the trunk and branches of the cocoa trees. Cross pollination between trees is critical.

As we walked through the forest, we saw lots of poison dart frogs, especially the bright green and black frog which is a bit bigger than the very tiny blue jean frog making it easier to spot. 

Eduardo stopped along the way to point out different plants used for medicinal and other practical uses. With Caroline as our volunteer, he showed us a small berry which he had Caroline open with her teeth and touch to her tongue. Within seconds her tongue tingled and went completely numb. Several of us tried it as well and felt like we were at the dentist!

We came to a covered demonstration area where Eduardo and his wife Kathy led us through an interactive presentation of making chocolate by hand from seed to finished product. We started with the  seeds collected from the pods which were put on a tray to dry in the sunlight. 

To see how the seeds were traditionally collected from the pods, Linda was selected to demonstrate for us how to break open the pods by banging them onto the edge of a wooden
block. 

 

The seeds were then ground in a wooden mortar and pestle and the hulls were winnowed. Joyce demonstrated the next step- kneading the ground mixture on a mortar stone. The mixture was put into a grinder for Katie to grind.

Next we each got some of the mixture in our hands and pressed it into a shape and voila!- we made our own chocolate! It was delicious! Next we got to try the “drink of the gods”- hot chocolate made from the seeds we processed. Mixed with water and milk plus a little cinnamon, it was by far the best hot chocolate I ever tasted! Eduardo ended with a talk about climate change and a plea to educate people about the harm we are doing to our ecosystems and the integral role of trees as sequesterers of carbon. On the way out we bought some of the family’s chocolate and thanked the family for their wonderful demonstration and the difference they were making in their community.

Upon returning to the lodge, we did a dusk walk with Jimmy. We saw a large iguana, a sloth, pairs of green parrots flying overhead, and 8 macaws flying back from their feeding ground. Too dark for photos but seeing them was the treat!

Before dinner we had a presentation by a local biologist about the MesoAmerican Biological Corridor, a collaboration with Nicaragua to protect the wild almond tree which in turn protects the Great Green Macaw. This endangered bird is the emblematic species of a government and community led protection effort aimed at establishing a biological corridor to save crucial ecosystems in Costa Rica and Nicaragua. The decline of the green macaw population is associated with deforestation, especially the logging of the wild almond tree which is the macaw's source of food and nesting area. 

After a packed full day- we walked back to our rooms through the peaceful, dimly lit rainforest, ready to catch some sleep before another day of learning and adventure.